Monteverde to the Pacific coast

23 December

A vine growing up a moss-covered tree

Writing 2009.12.23.1710 Villa Caletas, between Herradura and Tárcoles, Costa Rica

On the 23rd, we had an early departure and breakfast to reach the cloud forest park as admission was limited – the Reserva Biologicia Bosque Nubiso Monteverde. This walk was at a higher elevation meaning that this was a cloud forest (as opposed to a mountain rain forest). Leo checked with the staff as some of the trails were closed and we headed out, down one of the well maintained paths. We stopped at an avocado tree (the wild avocado has fruits the size of olives), which can be swallowed by birds – specifically the resplendent quetzal, which Judy was seeking with great anticipation. And lo and behold, there it was! Using Leo’s bird scope, I got three snaps through the device, although the bird was silhouetted against the sky which makes for a very difficult shot.

We continued along the trail looking at birds, flowers, and other vegetation. There was one predominate flower in bloom so there wasn’t to may new flowers to take snaps of. The trail led upward into the clouds and mist and by the time we reached the overlook of the continental divide, the only thing one could see was mist. The trail back was along a road that was rather muddy compared to the paths through the woods.

Perhaps the highlight of the day was after we got back to reception, Judy (with Neal and Leo) went back to the avocado tree and spotted two more (male) quetzals and using another guide’s bird scope was able to get much cleaner snaps of the birds than I got earlier. In the meantime I bought the refrigerator magnets to add to my collection.

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A rather large fig tree.

The respendent quetzal silhouetted against the sky.

This was the best Photoshop could do to pull the color out of the image.

Another quetzal silhouette.

A lot of aerial roots.

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Jonathan on the path.

Drymonia rubra.

Epiphyte on a log.

Walking through the misty forest.

Monkey comb (Sloanea ampla).

A dead stump known to be a quetzal nesting site (although it wasn't that season when we were there).

Blakea eriocalyx.

Psychotria viridis.

The path leading onwards.

Jonathan on the path.

Stopping for a moment.

Poikilacanthus sp.

I liked this shot with the new growth showing red at the top, fading to green.

Poikilacanthus sp.

Fuschia relative.

Unidentified.

A palm in flower.

African violet relative.

The cloud forest was getting cloudy!

Heading out from cover to a more exposed stretch of trail.

Looking off into the distance - couldn't have been too far, it was very misty.

Tropical heath.

We were on the continental divide - but the cloud we were in limited the view.

A millipede on the trail.

Lin and Sean on either side of the continental divide.

This was the Pacific side (I think).

Jonathan requested this photo for the broad leaved plants. Colocasia perhaps?.

Heading back down the trail.

Parrot beak.

Looking into the trees.

Writing 2009.12.24.1535 Villa Caletas, between Herradura and Tárcoles, Costa Rica

From the cloud forest reserve, we started the drive to the coastal plain. The roads, outside of downtown Santa Elena are not paved. There seems to be a significant number of the locals who want to leave them unpaved to prevent from being overrun by development. It makes for a very bumpy ride around those sharp turns and sheer drops as we worked our way down from the highlands. (Sergio is a skilled driver, and minimized the lurches and bumps we experienced, but a dirt road is by its nature, bumpy.) About three quarters the way to the Pan-American Highway, we achieved pavement, which sped our way down the hillsides. Once on the highway, we went a short distance to a seafood restaurant for a late lunch.

When we stepped off the bus it was into the tropical heat. Ooof! I was glad I had unzipped the leggings of my pants converting them to shorts, and had shed the hiking boots for flip-flops. Leo had called our orders in ahead so we were able to sit and eat almost immediately. Like most of the restaurants, this dining room was an open sided, covered patio with lots of ceiling fans to keep the air moving. Once we were out of the sun and into the shade, it was quite comfortable. For lunch, I had ceviche again, and garlic shrimp as the main.

From there we continued down the Pan-American Highway, leaving it to head towards the coast at Puntarenas. We made another turn towards the coast reaching Tárcoles and the bridge over the river of the same name. The attraction here is crocodiles – not that there’s anything wrong with that. There were about two dozen of the beasts basking on the river edge or resting in the shallows. The highway across the bridge is a busy one, and there are no sidewalks so it wasn’t designed for pedestrian use. But pedestrians do use it to peer at the crocodiles over the uncomfortably low railings. Apparently people will feed the crocs by dropping assorted chicken parts over the rail. Sergio and the bus were waiting for us on the other side of the bridge to take us the rest of the way to our hotel, the Villa Caletas.

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In the center of the photo, you can see the winding road that we were walking down the evening before.

Jonathan's soup - he asked me to take a snap it was so lovely.

Evidence. In this case, garlic shrimp!

They taste like chicken, right?

Crocodiles lazing in the shallows - even though it's not allowed, people will throw them raw chicken pieces.

Looking further up river.

Joan and Leo join Jonathan as he takes a snap over the edge.

Heading to the other side where the bus was waiting.

A black iguana (Ctenosaura similis) was also waiting for us.

Our room at the Villa Caletas, had an authentically tropical feel to the decor.

The other bedroom.

The amphitheatre faces the columns to the right.

The sun setting over the Pacific.

Jonathan working on his journal.

Setting sun.

Sun set.

The lodgings were a bit over the top for travelers like Jonathan and myself, but given the resort/spa character of the business, I suppose it’s to be expected. The location of the resort is high on a promontory overlooking the Pacific reached by a narrow, but blessedly paved, road that tiptoes along the ridge to the hotel. Once we got settled into our room next door to reception, we took showers and scooted off to the bar to work on journals.

At the bar, there is an amphitheatre facing the ocean for watching sunsets. Jonathan and I took a table overlooking the structure and worked on the journals while the sun set. Not content with the sunset, there was music playing on the speakers apparently in an attempt introduce drama to the proceedings (or perhaps create a mood). It all sounded “new age-y” and Jonathan commented that it sounded like something out of the Lord of the Rings soundtrack. Ultimately we were joined by Lin and Sean, so we paused our journaling at the time.

Dinner was at the Amphitheatre restaurant and was notable for the choreography of the wait staff. Jonathan had mussels and I had a pasta and salmon dish.