Sléibhte

Sleat

07 May

2013.05.07.1830 Kinloch Lodge, Sleat, Isle of Skye

After breakfast, the group split into two – Joe, Judyann, Roger, Wendy, Ed, and Mary took the more vigorous rout with Stuart, while the rest of us took the Kinloch Forest walk of about 4+ miles. The trailhead was back up the drive to the road, and led up into the hills a bit before turning northward back towards, and upslope from, the lodge.

Passing ruins of the stone house and a campground, we came to a sign, complete with map, showing the loop of the trail. We took the upper trail out to return on the lower path. Our route more or less contoured the hillside with occasional undulations. Most of the trail seemed to cross logged areas in the bright sunlight. This was the first day I started without wearing my raincoat for either rain or wind, and it stayed rolled up in the bottom of my pack the entire day. Not long after starting up the trail, I she the fleece, attaching it to the exterior of my day pack, proceeding in shirtsleeves the rest of the day.

There were numerous views out to the Sound of Sleat between Skye and the mainland. A sailboat setting out from a dock on the island side led us northward along the water eventually disappearing around the bend even as a trawler emerged from the opposite direction heading south.

We crossed numerous streams tumbling down the mountainside – although the rail was dry, the land was still very wet. Pól pointed out various plans and flowers, beetles and slugs.

After looping back to the lodge, we sat at the edge of the lawn eating our brown bag lunches in the sunlight. It was warm enough that I removed the leggings from my hiking pants and wore them as shorts the rest of the day.

Kinloch Forest Signs:
The lands around Kinloch and Leitir Fura have long been tended by man. Evidence of settlement and ‘husbandry’ can be discovered amongst the tree and along the coast dating back over several centuries. The sites of Viking ‘longboat lodges’ have been found on the shore below Leitir Fura. The drovers path the Kylerhea and the great cattle markets in the south forms part of the trail itself. Walls and enclosures remain, built by MacDonalds ‘woodkeepers’ to protect tender growing shoots and valued timber from hungry cattle. Today the key threat to woodland regeneration is grazing by deer. As part of the Mellennium Forrest for Scotland project, deer control is being carried out over a large area which removes the need for fences. Once the woodlands have been restored and expanded, the area will again be able to support higher numbers of deer.
The Leitir Fura Trail and the Drovers Path: Follow this old drovers path to the deserted township of Leitir Fura, and discover the delights of the forest. Along the way there are several viewpoints, with stunning vista up and down the Sound of Sleat, and across to Loch Hourn, Knoydarr and beyond.
The Kinloch Native Woodland Restoration Project. Today with the aid of the Millennium Forest for Scotland, Scottish Natural heritage and Skye and Lochalsh Enterprise Funding, large areas of non-native conifers are being removed. Native woodland regeneration will be encouraged, so that by the end of the next millennium much of this landscape will look as it once did, perhaps even as the Vikings first saw it as they explored up the coast and hauled up in the bay below Leitir Fura.
Welcome to Leitir Fura
Keepers of the forest
You are looking down over the township of Leitir Fura (LEE-cheer FOO-ra). Around 40 people lived here at one time, but gradually drifted away during the 19th century. They were mostly the folk of Clan MacInnes, traditional keepers of the forest.
Dodgy dealings
In 1782 Rory MacDonald, the tacksman (landlord’s agent) of Camuscross, wrote to the landlord, Lord MacDonald. He complained that the MacInnes brothers of Leitir Fura were smuggling brandy and rum. He also accused them of causing ‘more mischief to the woods that the whole people of Sleat put together’.
By land and sea
Today Leitir Fura feels remote, but at one time it was the gateway to many another place. The drovers’ path passed close by and the Sound of Sleat provided a route by sea. This was good for business – not all of it legal!

Leitir Fura Trail | Slighe Leitir Fura
Click on the images for a larger view and narrative.

Kinloch Lodge - the outbuilding where Jonathan and I stayed.

The main building of Kinloch Lodge.

From the front of the lodge looking down to the water.

Manda's got her horns on. There were two racks on either side of the entrance to the lodge.

Heading down the road to the trailhead from the lodge.

All the moss covered mounds (rocks?) underneath the trees made a interesting pattern.

Passing through a stand of birch trees.

A black slug (Arion ater).

Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta).

I'm guessing this is a wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa).

Lesser celandine (Ranunculus ficaria).

An unusual lichen covering a tree limb, perhaps a lungwort (Lobaria scrobiculata).

More lichen.

Lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis) - water condensed in the center of each leaf was prized as the purest water.

Slime mold.

Looking south across Loch na Dal to the Ornsay lighthouse and the Sound of Sleat.

Looking across Loch na Dal to a landing.

Pól welcoming the sun - or was he just posing for our benefit?

Looking eastward across the sound to the mainland. …

… This area of logged trees will be left to native species to recreate the forest typical of Scotland. The Sitka spruces are (obviously) non-native and were planted for timber and pulp, but crowd out native species and decrease biodiversity.

Jonathan coming up the trail.

Some flowering heather(?).

Primroses (Primula vulgaris).

More lichen.

I liked the contrasting textures of the thistle surrounded by the moss.

Another vista - yes, there were some of these vista shots I didn't post, about two thirds of them in fact.

Zooming in on the Ornsay lighthouse and a sailboat setting out.

Harriet and Jamen.

More lesser celandine (Ranunculus ficaria).

A dung beetle - the only animal (other than man) to navigate using the Milky Way.

Jonathan striding up the trail.

A singular mossy mound.

A peacock butterfly (Inachis io).

Violet (Viola sp.).

Jonathan in the ruins of the town Leitir Fura.

Jamen taking a snap of the walkers.

A shot of the Sitka spruce forest.

An emerging fern.

A trawler plies the waters of the sound.

Heading back towards the lodge.

Rushes silhouetted against the water.

The afternoon trip took us further down the Sleat peninsula to the Donald Clan holding and the ruins of the manse, museum, and gardens. We spent an hour there wandering among the gardens and resting on a bench looking over the strait between Skye and the mainland.

Clan Donald Skye Visitor Centre
SNAPSHOTS THROUGH TIME
1790 – An artist’s impression of the original mansion house.
1815 – A gothic castle extension was added designed by James Gillespie Graham and financed by income from the kelp industry.
1858 – Most of the original mansion house was destroyed by fire in 1855. This central section was replaced with a building designed by David Bryce.
Today – It is now hard to imagine the grandeur of the last century. In 1975 the original building was restored to house the Museum of the Isles.
In 1981, the crumbling gothic wing was made safe by lowering the walls, while retaining the original interior staircase. The central section was stabilized to allow for possible future restoration.

Clan Donald | Chlann Dhòmhnaill
Visitors Centre | Ionad Luchd-Tadhail
Click on the images for a larger view

Daisies (Bellis perennis) in the lawn at Kinloch Lodge.

A bed of daffodils at the lodge pales in comparison to the sea of daffodils that welcomes visitors to Ballindalloch Castle.

I got a shot of Kinloch Lodge from the bus as we headed south.

A shot of the gardens - a hillside rhododendron in flower.

The ruins of the laundry (at first I thought it was the main castle).

Numerous ferns, several inches across, had taken hold on the inside wall of the ruins.

OK - this is actually part of the main building - the ruins of the gothic wing.

A shot of the main building - the part in ruins. To the right, the building is occupied with offices of the museum.

A shot taken from an information panel showing what the original building probably looked like.

Showing expansion of the castle.

A very close up shot of a cypress or juniper (or something similar).

Now back at Kinloch Lodge with the sun casting shadows the opposite direction.

When we got back to the hotel, I soaked in a hot bath and took a short nap before we headed off to dinner to another sumptuous dinner. Tonight’s menu is below.

Dinner Menu
I. Soupçon: Roast tomato, black olive
II. Wild pigeon breast, Stornoway black pudding, beetroot and crème fraiche, citrus jus
III. Marcellos’ special: Seared west coast scallop, Parma ham, peanut
IV. Sirloin of Speyside beef, slow-cooked beef cheek, caramelized onion puree, Orkney smoked cheese ‘coxinha’, Madeira port sauce OR Fillet of Mallaig hake, chargrilled vegetables, Drumfearn mussels, caper and parsley cream sauce
V. Very lemony tart, crisp pistachio pastry, honey and whiskey sauce

Kinloch Lodge | Ceann Loch Taigh-òsda
Click on the images for a larger view

Not the best crowd shot, but shown to give a sense of the dining room decor.

Course II - wild pigeon breast, Stornoway black pudding, beetroot and crème fraiche, citrus jus.

Marcellos’ special: Seared west coast scallop, Parma ham, peanut.

Sirloin of Speyside beef, slow-cooked beef cheek, caramelized onion puree, Orkney smoked cheese ‘coxinha’, Madeira port sauce.

Very lemony tart, crisp pistachio pastry, honey and whiskey sauce.