Rio Marañón

16 April morning

The Amazonian sky was a revelation.

The Perúvian Amazon; our location circled.

I slept some, but woke up, tossed and turned until at last at 0300 I went upstairs and watched the stars. The Milky Way was very much in evidence, but I didn’t recognize any constellation here at 4°S of the equator. The wash of water as the boat motored upstream was peaceful. There was no moon but there seemed to be enough starlight to give the river a milky hue with some of the more prominent stars (or planets) reflecting in the water. There is floating vegetation in the river that apparently housed insects and/or frogs as you could hear cricket or cicada-like chirps and buzzes as they flowed by. The pilot would flash a spotlight ahead of the boat about every two minutes, which revealed mists in the distance along the shore. As the sun rose birdcalls started echoing from the river banks.

Eventually the staff stirred and coffee was available at the bar. With coffee and sufficient light from the rising sun, it was time to catch up on the journal.

2015.04.16.1820 Aboard the Delfin II traveling Río Ucayali

After breakfast we boarded the skiffs and in them, continued up the Marañón River for about half an hour until we came to a landing back in the trees on the hillside where we disembarked for our jungle walk. Fortunately the trails were relatively dry. Assisting Javier, our naturalist guide from the Delfin, was Frederico who foraged off the trail and brought us several specimens including a poison dart frog, two pink-toed tarantulas (separately), a large unnamed beetle, and a red-tailed boa constrictor.

Note: the naturalists make a point of distinguishing the flooded forest and the "dry" forest (or terra firma) where we took our hike. And they are quite distinct. The vegetation in the flooded forest has evolved to survive being flooded nearly half the year, and this was the tail end of rainy season so the river was at maximum flood. That five foot bush on the edge of the river is actually a forty foot tree during the dry or "low water" season.

The trail was rough and uneven, but obviously maintained. The humidity is typically between 80 and 90%, so I was dripping and using the fan provided by the Delfin staff.

When returning to the landing, the local folks had a number of handicrafts on display and for sale. Jonathan bought an armadillo shaped rattle.

Lunch menu: Carpaccio of Oscar Fish over camucamu sauce, beef tenderloin served with stuffed ravioli with pijuayo and sweet pepper sauce, and lemon cream.

Click on the images for a larger view

The waning moon - I used the tripod I packed hoping to get a night sky shot. This was the only time I used it.

The beginning of dawn over the Amazon.

The river was frequently full of floating vegetation.

The river serves as a highway through the inpenetrable forest; it’s four days to the mouth of the Amazon in Brazil.

Someone as interested in us as we were in them. Note the hammock - these ferry rides can take days.

The wheel-house of the Delfin II.

The library on the third level was enclosed and air conditioned, a refuge we didn't need to use.

The lighting in the dining room.

The 3 skiffs were hoisted out of the water while the Delfin was in motion.

The Delfin logo etched into the glass window of the library.

That's the Bautista family in the front four seats, Steve and Melissa Wilson in front of us.

Jonathan wearing the life vest.

One of the other skiffs also on the way.

One of the many, many sky shots. This one with Melissa.

The crew referred to this boat as 'the competition.' They never mentioned a name, à la Lord Voldemort.

Into the jungle - the Delfin provided the Wellington boots, walking sticks, and fans - all of which were useful!

Javier discussing a walking palm (Socratea exorrhiza).

Poison dart frog - that's Javier's thumb holding it in place.

A termite nest - as I recall it was about 3 feet top to bottom.

A harlequin beetle.

Fruits of the chambira palm (Astrocaryum chambira), ~3 inches in diameter and edible.

A pink-toed tarantula (Avicularia avicularia).

Strangler fig - stangling a palm tree.

A tiny (about the diameter of a quarter) mushroom.

Javier demostrating the use of a variety of vine as a jungle survival water source.

Frederico holds out a red-tailed boa constrictor for Kathy's examination.

Now Melissa gets up close. For some reason none of the guys expressed any interest in holding the thing.

The locals had their handicrafts out for examination when we returned off the trail.

Towel origami returns! We hadn't seen anything like this since our trip to Costa Rica.

A woven pink dolphin - I have no idea if the color of the fibers came from natural sources or was synthetic.

One of the local inhabitants fishing from a dugout canoe.

The kitchen/dining staff always had a unique table setting for us at lunch and dinner.

Evidence, appetizer: carpaccio of oscar (fish) over camucamu sauce.

Evidence, entreé: beef tenderloin served with stuffed ravioli with pijuayo and sweet pepper sauce.

Evidence, dessert: lemon cream