Machu Picchu

23 April

We decided to try to get back up to Machu Picchu for sunrise. So we got up at 0430, had breakfast at 0500, and walked over to the bus station and joined the long line for the ride up. I noted on the couple of switchbacks (there are 13 total, and it takes 25 minutes to get up to the top from town) that the sun was hitting the mountaintops above so we weren’t going to make sun-up. Still the morning light and blue skies made the trip worthwhile. As the sun rose further and hit the clouds nestled in the deep valley below, the mists began to rise as they were warmed by the sunlight. We didn’t do much climbing so we did not take the classic photograph of Machu Picchu that one usually sees. After about two hours, we decided we had enough and headed back into town. While waiting for the bus, Melissa and Steve walked by heading into the site, so we had our last farewell at the top of the mountain.

Once back in town, we returned to the hotel where we found a message from Metropolitan Touring – the Casa Andina Private Collection Cusco was full, and would it be acceptable to book us into the Marriott. Not a problem by us, but we were worried that this might keep us from revisiting the Museo del Pisco and Ciccolina!

22015.04.24.2100 Lima Airport, Perú

The train ride back to Ollantaytambo from Aguas Callientes was beautiful again, this time in the setting sun rather than sunrise. As the darkness fell, the waxing crescent moon was visible through the “vista dome” as she led Venus through the night sky.

Click on the images for a larger view

Looking up the valley while walking to the bus station.

The line was long at the bus station, but moved fairly quickly.

Sunrise and clouds at Machu Picchu.

Sunrise on Machu Picchu and Waynu Picchu.

Jonathan walking along a terrace as the mists rise from the valley.

This is not the usual Temple of the Sun - but it was at the time.

Sunlight through windows.

Looking back towards the House of the Guardian.

More people entering along the terraces.

Temple of the Three Windows.

Looking through the warehouse district.

A bromeliad silouetted against the sunlit mists.

The mists lingering down in the valley.

House of the Guardian.

Looking down into the valley.

Jonathan.

Llawnmower.

The houses at the edges of the terraces.

More Waynu Picchu.

One of the thirteen switchback on the Hiram Bingham Highway - which is the name of the road to the citadel.

Jonathan leaving Machu Picchu.

The dogs. This region of Perú is full of stray dogs, much like the park in Lima was overrun by stray cats.

A sign showing the thirteen switchbacks on the road, the elevation change is about 1,300 feet.

Jonathan on the main drag in Aguas Callientes.

The train going by.

Río Vilcanota - looking upstream towards our hotel.

The town is tucked so tight in the valley that the train tracks are essentially one of the streets in town.

Evidence, appetizer: Chupe de quinoa (quinoa chowder).

While waiting for the main course, a train went by below us.

A parrot heliconia.

Evidence, entrée: Brazil nut crusted trout with sautéed spinach, orange sauce and passion fruit beurre blanc.

Evidence, dessert: passion fruit ice cream drizzled with chocolate. Yes, this is the second time you've seen this.

On the train back to Ollantaytambo, there was a cultural presentation and fashion show.

Jonathan walking along a terrace, then stops and poses. (5MB video, 0:11)

The rising mists - 'you should certainly be able to get a good video of this' (6MB video, 0:13)

Aguas Callientes and Río Vilcanota (18MB video, 0:43)

Alexandra met us at the train station and led us to where Romulo and the van was waiting. The route back to Cusco was more direct than the ride into the Sacred Valley, although Romulo navigated it expertly as usual. Alexandra called ahead to Ciccolina to make a reservation for us at 2145 that gave us an hour to revisit the Museo del Pisco.

The Marriott turned out to be within crawling distance of the Museo del Pisco, as in just across the street. There’s no obvious signage for the hotel, so it’s no wonder we missed it, snide observations about our sobriety (or lack thereof) aside.

At the Museo del Pisco, I ordered a “Piconaso” which used aji lime and ginger infused Piscos, lime and passion fruit juice, peppermint, ginger ale, and bitters. It turned out to be very fruit punch-like.

Jonathan ordered the “Francis Drake” due to its similarity to a gin Gibson – Pisco, vermouth rosso, dry vermouth, and, of course, the pickled pearl onions. The entire preparation was poured over a rather slick spherical ice “cube”.

When we got to Ciccolina, we were glad Alexandra had called in reservations as the place was packed. The staff took good care of us and by the time we left around 2230 there were a few open tables. I had a barbecue duck with chili risotto and mango salsa, while Jonathan had alpaca spiced up with a creamy four pepper sauce served with a crispy yucca soufflé and roasted tomatoes. We skipped dessert, and made our way back to the hotel after Jonathan finished his coffee.

Click on the images for a larger view

A 'Piconaso' and a 'Francis Drake'.

Soft, bbq'd pink, duck breast spiced port sauce; chili risotto: fresh mango salad with sesame oil.

Jonathan's entrée: tender fillet of alpaca, creamy four-pepper sauce; crispy yucca soufflé and roasted tomatoes.

The Francis Drake - "you look the same - brothers?" (86MB video, 3:33)